Earlier this month, my husband and I decided to go on a spontaneous “mini-moon” and booked to stay in North Wales. This is one of our favourite places to visit in the UK (although we do have many), but we felt that this would be the right place for our to start our married lives together. Funnily enough, we were already exploring Gainsborough Old Hall up in Lincolnshire, so after we had finished here, we drove back down to Burton to pack a bag and then we drove over to Wales.
On the drive over we found a lovely AirBnB glamping pod in Flintshire, and promptly booked it. The reviews looked good and the price was affordable (2 nights for around £160 in total). The drive didn’t take us very long, and we arrived around 6pm that evening. The AirBnB host had left some very easy instructions to find the pod, as the SatNav did not take us there directly. And I have to say we were pleasantly surprised when we drove up to the pod, as the view was a real highlight. In our “quickness” to book somewhere I think we missed the fact that there was a stunning view over Hope Mountain, which really made the place stand out.
After we had unpacked the car, we were starting to feel a bit peckish and luckily the hosts had left some food suggestions for us to try out in the area. One of them was closed on the Tuesday, so went to the nearby local pub, which was only a ten minute drive away.
Where to Eat in Pen-y-ffordd North Wales?
The pub we went to was called The Red Lion, and was a great local pub to find. It had a great atmosphere, lovely people and a good choice of food on the menu. The parking was somewhat limited, so might have been a bit of a pain if we went on a Friday, but there was plenty of parking on the road.
The pub is dog friendly (but just in the beer garden and lounge, not the restaurant). We didn’t have our dog with us on this day, as he was staying with my parents, but I always like to know how dog friendly a place is for future reference.
The people in the bar were very friendly, potentially though they had had a few drinks, but they all wanted to hear about Luke’s and mine’s wedding the moment we said we were on our “mini-moon”. They were all very kind though and brought us our drinks, which we were very grateful for.
For dinner, there were plenty of options on the menu, so really we were spoilt for choice. Luke had the burger, and I had a chilli con carne, which was great value and a good portion size. For “pub grub”, the Red Lion in Pen-y-ffordd is definitely one we recommend.
Three Castles in One Day in Wales
The following morning, Luke and I wake up early and make the one hour and a half drive over to our first castle on our agenda for the day – Harlech Castle. We’re visiting three castles today, and all of them are within half an hour of each other and are all part of CADW. We’re English Heritage members, which does cover the cost of entry for us. I think the first year you get half price off though, but after one year you won’t have to pay anything.
Exploring Harlech Castle
Location: Harlech LL46 2YH
Opened: 1283
Prices (as of August 2025):
- Members: Free
- Adult: £10.50
- Family: £33.60
- Disabled person and companion: Free
- Juniors (Aged 5-17) / Students: £7.30
- Seniors (Aged 65+): £9.40
Dog Friendly: It is dog friendly, but only on the ground level.
The drive to Harlech is quite a fun one, it’s on the other side of North Wales, but it makes the most sense for us to start there as it’s the furthest castle to our pod. Luke did all the driving this holiday, which was great as I got to enjoy all of the scenery – and there was a lot! We drove through hills, with purple heather and despite being a bit overcast it was really beautiful.
When we arrived at Harlech, we were driving along the “bottom road” and had to drive up a very steep incline towards the castle. First gear for our car was a must, and we’re very glad we didn’t meet anyone coming down (I don’t think it was a one way either). There is parking at the castle, but there’s not a lot and we got one of the last two spots available, so arriving early (particularly during the school holidays) is a must. You do need to pay for parking, so this is something to bear in mind.
To enter the castle, you exit the car park and walk over to the visitor centre first. You can buy your ticket here or scan your membership cards. There looked to be a exhibition in the centre as well, but it wasn’t working when we were visiting. There is also a cafe at Harlech, with a great view if you sit outside looking towards the coast.
Walking into Harlech Castle is an experience in itself. You cross a modern bridge that leads straight into the mighty gatehouse, the kind of thing you’d imagine sketching as a child when drawing “a proper castle.” Even in its ruined state, Harlech has a commanding presence. Once inside, you can climb staircases to reach different levels, wander the towers, and look out across the battlements towards the coast. It’s not hard to see why this place was once such an important stronghold.
After a couple of hours exploring the ruins, climbing every staircase we could find, and taking far too many photos, we rewarded ourselves with a quick stop at the café. Sitting outside with a bacon roll in hand, looking out over the coastline, felt like the perfect way to end our visit.
But our castle-hopping wasn’t over yet. From Harlech, we got back in the car and drove north towards one of Wales’s most famous castles: Caernarfon Castle.
Exploring Caernarfon Castle
Location: Castle Ditch, Caernarfon LL55 2AY
Opened: 1283
Prices (as of August 2025):
- Members: Free
- Adult: £15.20
- Family: £48.70
- Disabled person and companion: Free
- Juniors (Aged 5-17) / Students: £10.60
- Seniors (Aged 65+): £13.60
Dog Friendly: Dogs are not permitted in the castle in the busy months, but can from 4 November to 31 March only. Assistance dogs are permitted on-site all year.
The drive from Harlech to Caernarfon took about 40 minutes, but it went quickly with the mountains, rolling hills, and occasional glimpses of the coast along the way. The castle doesn’t have its own car park, but there are plenty of public options nearby. My tip would be to park by the harbour, it looks full when you first drive in, but if you keep going, there’s usually space. From there, it’s a steep(ish) walk up, but worth it for the views looking back across the water.
Caernarfon itself is massive. The walls are thick and imposing, the towers stand high above the town, and it’s easy to see why Edward I built it as both a fortress and a statement of power. The castle has also been tied to the title “Prince of Wales” since the 13th century, most famously, Prince Charles was invested here in 1969.
Once inside, it’s a maze of staircases, towers, and winding passages. There’s supposed to be a one-way system for climbing the turrets, but in practice it wasn’t being followed when we visited. At one point an elderly lady got stuck on the stairs with people going both ways, so I joked that “it wouldn’t be a castle visit without having to battle our way through.” Everyone laughed, and we eventually all shuffled around each other.
Be prepared for lots of steps here. Some of the staircases are steep and narrow, but if you don’t mind the climb, the views from the top are spectacular, stretching over the town, the Menai Strait, and even the mountains in the distance. It was busier than Harlech, and definitely more touristy, but that’s to be expected for one of Wales’s most iconic castles.
If you’re after a fortress that really makes you feel the scale of medieval power, Caernarfon ticks all the boxes. Just wear good shoes, bring some patience for the crowds, and take your time exploring.
It also wouldn’t be a holiday without an ice cream and there are plenty of places that you can get one! Just be warned, make sure to grab some napkins when it’s hot. Whilst our ice cream was delicious, we had to eat it quick, otherwise it would have melted all over us! We finished our ice cream as we looked over the harbour, which made for a very peaceful few minutes, before we started the car again and headed over to Conwy – our third and final castle of the day!
Exploring Conwy Castle
Location: Rose Hill St, Conwy LL32 8AY
Opened: 1283–89
Prices (as of August 2025):
- Members: Free
- Adult: £13.10
- Family: £42.00
- Disabled person and companion: Free
- Juniors (Aged 5-17) / Students: £9.10
- Seniors (Aged 65+): £11.70
Dog Friendly: Dogs are not permitted in the castle in the busy months, but can from 4 November to 28 February only. Assistance dogs are permitted on-site all year
Conwy Castle was the final one on our list for the day and I’ll be honest, we were a bit tired at this point, but we were so glad we made our way over. I’ve been to this castle before in the past, but Luke has only walked along the castle walls so this was a real treat for him.
Regarding parking, there are several car parks, but we recommend you park at Morfa Bach, which is only a short walk to the castle and has a great ice cream shop if you get the timing right. If you do have dogs, I would suggest you park at the back as there is a field they could run around on if needed.
The castle itself is a beauty. Built by Edward I at the same time as Caernarfon, it’s part of the same World Heritage Site, but it has a very different feel. Whereas Caernarfon is all about size and grandeur, Conwy feels more compact and rugged, with its towers rising dramatically over the estuary. You also get the bonus of the medieval town walls still wrapping around Conwy, it really adds to the atmosphere.
Inside, there’s plenty to explore: towers, chambers, and walkways, each offering different vantage points over the town and the water. Normally I’d climb as many towers as possible, but by this point in the day Luke and I were both running out of steam, so we skipped a few of them. Even so, we still got to enjoy some stunning views without pushing ourselves too much.
For me, Conwy and Caernarfon sit side by side as favourites, both impressive, but for completely different reasons. Conwy has that classic fairy-tale look, perched on the edge of the estuary with its walls stretching into the distance, while Caernarfon feels more like a statement of raw medieval power. If you can fit both into a trip, I’d highly recommend it.
Dinner at The Millstone, Pen-y-ffordd
After a long day of castle-hopping, we decided to treat ourselves to dinner at The Millstone in Pen-y-ffordd. The restaurant has a really nice atmosphere (smart but relaxed) and the menu had plenty of tempting options.
The food itself was excellent. Everything we ordered was full of flavour, beautifully presented, and felt like proper comfort food with a slightly fancier twist. It was on the pricier side compared to the pub the night before, but the quality definitely matched the price tag.
That said, the service could have been better. We were seated in a corner away from most of the other diners, which made us feel a little tucked out of the way. Unfortunately, it also meant we were a bit forgotten about at times, and had to wait longer than expected for drinks and to place our order. It didn’t ruin the evening by any means, but it did take the shine off slightly.
Overall, we’d still recommend The Millstone if you’re staying in the area — especially if you want a nice meal after a day exploring North Wales. Just maybe ask not to be hidden away in the corner if you want a bit more of the buzz of the restaurant.
It was a lovely evening though, and when we got home Luke made us both a cup of tea and we were able to sit outside the pod and watch the sun set. Very romantic really!
Our Final Day in Wales
Our last day in North Wales was just as busy as the first two, but this time we had company. My parents came to join us, theeddieandwhiskyadventures on Instagram. Both were very excited to be part of the adventure (though in very different ways, Eddie a little more cautious as always, and Whisky bouncing with endless energy). But before my parents arrived, Luke and I went on a quick adventure in the morning and found a castle hidden in the forest!
Exploring Ewloe Castle
Location: Deeside CH5 3BZ
Opened: 1257
Prices: Free
Dog Friendly: Dogs are allowed, but on leads.
On our final morning, before heading off to meet my parents, we stopped by Ewloe Castle. This one is a bit different from the big Edwardian fortresses we’d been visiting. Built in 1257 by the Welsh prince Llywelyn ap Gruffudd, it’s tucked away in the middle of the woods and feels like a bit of a hidden gem.
There’s no official car park here, you just pull up on the side of the road and follow a woodland path for about ten minutes. Suddenly, through the trees, the remains of the castle appear, which feels quite surreal. It’s almost like stumbling across a forgotten ruin.
Although the castle is smaller than the likes of Harlech or Caernarfon, it’s still fascinating. The stone walls are largely intact, and you can even climb up one of the towers and “look out,” imagining what it must have been like centuries ago (although you can’t really see much other than woodland). Being in the middle of the forest gives it a really atmospheric feel, very different to the coastal and town-based castles we’d seen earlier in the trip.
Ewloe isn’t a site you’ll spend hours at, but it’s definitely worth the detour if you’re nearby. It’s free, dog-friendly, and has a quiet, tucked-away charm that makes it feel like your own private discovery.
Visiting Valle Crucis Abbey
Location: Llangollen, LL20 8DD
Founded: 1201
Price: Free – unmanned site when we visited
We drove over to Valle Crucis Abbey, just outside Llangollen, and met my parents there. Dogs are welcome on site, so Eddie and Whisky were able to potter around with us as we explored the ruins. Parking is straightforward, with a small car park right by the entrance, and entry is free for CADW/English Heritage members. It is on a caravan/camping site though, so don’t get confused when you drive over. Luckily you can see the Abbey pretty clearly, but it does look a bit random.
The abbey itself is incredibly atmospheric. Even though only parts of the building remain, you still get a real sense of its former grandeur. The large windows, now without glass, frame the hills beyond beautifully, and the cloister area is still easy to picture as the quiet heart of monastic life. Eddie found a shady patch to lie down in while Whisky tried to investigate every corner, luckily, it’s quite an open site, so easy to manage with dogs.
It’s a peaceful place to spend half an hour or so, and a nice contrast to the imposing castles we’d been visiting earlier in the trip. The only negative that we had with this place, was the door to the dormitories was locked, so we weren’t able to explore that part. There was no sign to say why we couldn’t go up the stairs, and we only knew there was a dormitory because we had visited years before. However, this didn’t ruin the experience, and again this was Luke’s first time exploring.
Walking Up Horseshoe Pass
From Valle Crucis, we drove up to Horseshoe Pass. We did originally want to go to the waterfall, that is clearly signposted, however, the car park was full and since Eddie is quite a nervous boy, we didn’t want to walk him where we knew it’d be very busy. This wasn’t the end of the world though, as we knew we could drive to the Horseshoe pass instead. The road itself is worth the trip, winding its way dramatically between the mountains, with views that seem to stretch forever. We parked in one of the lay-bys near the top and went for a short walk along one of the paths. My mother stayed in the car during this walk up, but she could still enjoy the views from the lay-by.
Luke, my dad and me made the hike up. A walk that we must have done about a five years ago! It didn’t take us too long to get to the top, about 30 minutes. But it was very deceiving, you think you’ve reached the highest point and then it keeps revealing more and more! You could have walked for miles more, but this was only a short trip, so we came back along the same path.
This is a great spot if you want a bit of fresh air without committing to a full day’s hike. The path was steep in parts but manageable, even with the dogs. Whisky loved bounding ahead, while Eddie stayed close by, keeping a watchful eye on everything. The views from the top were stunning, and you could see exactly why this pass is such a well-known landmark in the area. What made this even more special, was my mother had packed up the “cheese tower” that Luke and I had had at our wedding and we enjoyed the leftover cheese and crackers in the lay-by looking over the amazing views. The sun even came out for a bit as well during this point!
Exploring Denbigh Castle
Location: Denbigh LL16 3NB
Opened: 13th Century
Prices (as of August 2025):
- Members: Free
- Adult: £6.50
- Family: £20.70
- Disabled person and companion: Free
- Juniors (Aged 5-17) / Students: £4.50
- Seniors (Aged 65+): £5.80
Dog Friendly: Yes, but only on the ground level.
Our final castle of the trip was Denbigh Castle, about a 45-minute drive away. Parking here is easier than at some of the other castles, with a dedicated car park just outside the entrance.
Denbigh Castle doesn’t get as many visitors as Caernarfon or Conwy, which means it has a quieter, more relaxed atmosphere. The gatehouse is still very impressive, and there are some great walks around the walls. Dogs are welcome here too, so Eddie and Whisky were able to explore with us.
By this point, we were definitely starting to feel the miles in our legs, but it was worth it to see one more piece of Welsh history before heading home.
Seafood in Conwy – The Telford Bistro
To round off our trip, we drove back into Conwy and treated ourselves to dinner at The Telford Bistro. After days of bacon rolls, pub meals, and plenty of walking, seafood felt like the perfect choice. They were also really great when I called up and asked them for a table in the corner to help with our nervous dog, they had several places that could work and even when we were arrived they wanted to check that it was fine with us. The one thing that did made me laugh was when I called up, I forgot to give my name, so the official booking reference was “nervous dog” and they knew exactly who I was when we came in. Very lovely staff I will say.
The bistro has a cosy, welcoming feel, and the menu offered a good mix of classic seafood dishes and daily specials. The food was fresh and delicious, a real treat to end our holiday. Plus the price was fantastic, two courses for £25! Sitting there with my parents, Luke, Eddie, and Whisky, it felt like the perfect way to bring our North Wales adventure to a close.
Being right by the seaside really was a perfect way to end our holiday. North Wales never disappoints, whether it’s the castles, the abbeys, the dramatic landscapes, or the simple joy of good food after a long day of exploring, it always feels like a place we could come back to again and again.
This trip in particular will always feel special to us, as it was our first little adventure as a married couple where we went away (we’d done a couple of day trips before). Sharing it with my parents and the two dogs on the final day made it even better, the perfect mix of history, walking, food, and family.
If you’re looking for a short break in the UK that packs in history, scenery, and plenty of character, I couldn’t recommend North Wales more. Just be prepared for lots of steps, a few steep roads, and perhaps a melting ice cream or two along the way!
CastlesandTurrets 